top of page
Writer's pictureMaria DiCicco

Oaxaca Foodie Guide: Oaxacan Cuisine and the Best Restaurants In Oaxaca

Updated: Aug 14

Are you wondering, "Que comer in Oaxaca!?" (what to eat in Oaxaca?). Look no further. As a bucket list destination of mine for several years, I researched, I salivated...I made a lot of Mexican meals at home in anticipation...and finally I got to visit my Oaxacan wonderland for a week in February. Here I've rounded up the best of Oaxaca foodie tips, tours and unique restaurants from my first-hand experience and research.


Try traditional and authentic Oaxacan mole, challenge your tastebuds with chapulines, or see what all the fuss is about the tllayudas de Oaxaca. Consider Oaxaca your foodie playground. Let's get into it!


Note: Always Pack Tissues represents many tried and tested travel sites as what is called an 'affiliate' partner. That means if you click on my ads I may get a commission from a resulting sale.


a trio of mole sauces with meat and rice


In this article you will find:



An Introduction to Oaxacan Cuisine


If you are a foodie like me (self-proclaimed, of course), then the first thing you probably Google when visiting a new place is where to eat and what to try. I'm hoping to cover those bases for you here!


Below, find the typical and traditional Oaxacan dishes you would find on street carts, in restaurants or in cooking classes before we dig in a little deeper with specific recommendations on restaurants and eateries.



Traditional Oaxacan Dishes


Carne

In Oaxaca, everything is generally offered with one choice of meat:


  • Tasajo (dried, slim cut beef)

  • Cecina (seasoned, slightly spicy thin cut pork)

  • Chorizo (choose from blanco or slightly spicy, seasoned the same as the cecina)


Pair the meat with corn tortillas to create dishes like:


Memelas

These popular little corn tortillas are loaded up with different toppings like beans, cheese and meats. Topped with little chapulines (grasshoppers) these are a fun and easy snack anytime.


corn tortillas topped with beans and cheese

Tlayudas de Oaxaca

Described often as a "Oaxacan pizza", this dish is served both in formal or street food settings. A large tortilla is topped with anything from meat to cheese and more, melted up nicely on a comal, which is an open flame oven.



mexican pizza


7 Moles of Oaxaca

Holy Moly there's a lot of mole happenings in Oaxaca. I only really ever knew about the one mole - mole negro - a blackish brown sauce that I've made from Dona Maria Mexican Mole paste, or of course in a restaurant. It's cacao (chocolate) based and a touch bitter, since it's not chocolate as we know it (i.e. full of sugar).


It's one of my favorite off-the-typical-tex-mex-menu options, and it's excellent with chicken.


In Oaxaca, there's several ways to try all 7 moles of Oaxaca, which include:


Green (mole verde)

Red (mole rojo)

Black (mole negro)

Yellow (mole amarillo)

Mole Manchamantel

Mole Coloradito

Mole Chichilo


How to try the 7 moles of Oaxaca:

I never saw pipian, chichilo or manchamantel specifically, so it's hard for me to say if those go by other names, but we did try five moles on this trip.


plate of five different colored sauces called mole

Our favorites were estofado, which lands somewhere in the reddish-orange range, full of almonds and green olives. It is absolutely delicious with any style of meat and is not spicy.


Another favorite was the amarillo. Get the empanada de amarillo, which has a tangy flavor and sometimes includes a new herb for me called 'santa'.


Lastly, I really enjoyed the coloradito. Slightly spicy, this dark brown mole packs flavor with a punch.


Also Try


Flor de calabaza quesadilla

A squash blossom quesadilla!


Atole de Pinole

A common breakfast favorite, this is a frothy corn milk drunk from a bowl, served with a giant slice of cornbread


bread and a frothy drink in a bowl

Chocolate de Leche

This is hot chocolate, served with bread as well, and drunk from a bowl


Cafe de Olla

A cinnamon flavored coffee


Tepache and Pulque

Street vendor favorites, these are fermented "drinks of the gods"


two clay vats labeled tepache and pulque

Mezcal

I feel like it goes without saying, but wherever you go you will find mezcal to try. Go out of town onto the Ruta de Caminos del Mezcal for the best of the best. Read more about the process of making mezcal, the distilleries and palenques here.


Jicaleta

This street cart food is popular with the littles and the big kids. It is simply cold jicama pops painted with sugar and dipped in flavored sugars. Yum!


jicaleta cart

Chapulines

Grasshoppers - the smaller ones are the best, seriously. Don't hesitate! We liked adding them to memelas, or snacking alongside mezcal. We even saw chapuline salt, chapuline spice for dusting your food, chapuline hot sauces, and more. Needless to say, they are highly regarded in foodie cuisine in Oaxaca.


Gusanos magueys

These are the little worms they find when they dig up agave. They toast them up and serve them for snacking. I found them to be a little hollow and airy. Not a fan.


worm snack

Marimba Pops

This spicy chile flavored candy starts like a chewy sugar cube and then turns into a refreshing cherry flavored lollipop. It's great for a candy loving adult, but my kid found it too spicy.



Oaxaca Street Food and Market Musts


Street Food in Oaxaca

Street food in Oaxaca is definitely where it's at. Follow your nose, look for crowded vendors and enjoy.


You can easily visit many of the markets and street food vendors on foot in Oaxaca city, but for an in-depth approach, consider doing a guided Oaxaca street food and markets tour.


If you want to go even deeper, rent a car and explore neighboring villages, along with their markets and culinary offerings.


Tlacolula Market Musts

Truthfully, if you do only one thing in Oaxaca, it is to visit the Tlacolula sunday market. There you will find incredible, huge piles of freshly picked garlic and onions, street hawkers selling tepache and pulque, carts painting jicama for kiddos and parents alike, and the smell of smoked meats wafting out of passageways.


Here are a few of my recommendations:


First, visit the exterior market full of souvenirs and such, then when your stomach starts to growl, head inside the market for one of two experiences. The first, a sit down option where you are served alongside other diners various stews and meats, or second, go for a open air barbecue experience.


a woman cooks meat on a bbq

Select and purchase your desired amount of meat from one of multiple butcher stalls and have them plop it on the grill for you. It's a long process, maybe 20 minutes to cook, so during that time walk around and gather tortillas, drinks, or vegetables to put on the grill.


We ordered costillas de cerdo con ajo (garlic pork ribs) and chorizo blanco (white chorizo). ThisWe got our entire lunch for less than $5 USD and the meat by itself was only $2 USD. This experience was not only fun and interactive, but very delicious.


woman in a cowgirl hat eats meat from a basket

Lastly, do not leave without trying a jicaleta pop. It's a jicama cut and placed on a popsicle stick, which is then painted with a red sugar and dipped in your choice of colorful sugar options including mango and tajin. It's a refreshing and crunchy finish to a hot lunch.



Mercado 20 de Noviembre: Pasillo de Humo Meat Alley

The claim is that one cannot possibly call themselves a Oaxaca foodie unless they have been to the Pasillo de Humo meat alley in Oaxaca City. A smoke-filled, vibrant sensory overload, this lane just outside the Mercado 20 de Noviembre is a must-do lunch while you are in Oaxaca.


The experience can only be described as chaotic, if you haven't got your Spanish language down pat. Sniff your way to the best looking meat, then sit down and wait to be bombarded with options of condiments, tortillas, bebidas (drinks) and more from passing vendors.


smoky lane of diners

Order a la carte to pair with your meat and settle the bill with a mental count of what's on the table. Maybe take a photo to be sure. We chose to pass on this experience, despite the many pleadings from other bloggers, because we had already experienced the meat hall at Tlacolula market. Both I am sure are wonderful.



Mercado de la Merced: Fonda Florecita

The best breakfast in Oaxaca is arguably one of chilaquiles (basically chips with eggs) and a frothy mug of Mexican hot chocolate. Find this pairing at Fonda Florecita at the Mercado de la Merced in Jalatlaco, or at just about any other breakfast spot in town.




Oaxaca City Restaurants

Because of our proximity outside city center (we stayed closer to Santa Maria del Tule), these were options I looked up but didn't sample for myself.


El Asador Vasco

Overlooking the zocalo, or main square, this Spanish influenced restaurant is a great spot for evening people-watching and good steaks. A little upscale, it's a great place to dress up and feel fancy.




El Escapulario

El Escapulario is a modest eatery with great tlayudas. With a quaint and homey atmosphere, you'll be happy to stay for lunch or dinner. Don't leave without trying their tasting menu of 5 moles.


Cooking Class Meal

If you are looking for the best cooking class in Oaxaca, look no further than Minerva Lopez' traditional cooking class. If the hundreds of user review photos don't do it for you, then honestly I'm not sure you're really a foodie!



Las Quince Letras

Popular for many reasons, this place requires a reservation if you want to get in the door without a fuss. There is rooftop seating, dining room seating, and tranquil courtyard seating. Watch them make tortillas at the "area de comal", a cool spot for a little side entertainment to your dinner. Meals are all authentic recipes of the region from mole to their seasonal special, chiles en nogada. Dress up a little if you wish, but this hip spot caters to the casual too.



Restaurants Outside of Oaxaca City


El Milenario

Santa Maria del Tule

yellow wall sign with restaurant name

A lovely place to start your day, breakfasts here are full of surprises from heaping plates of cecina, eggs, tasajo or chorizo covering your enmoladas and chilaquiles, to the monstrous must-have bowls of atole or hot chocolate.





Pair breakfast with a stroll past the famous 1000 year old tree in the square, and a quick pop in at the Mercado de Artesanias. Tip: the tiny alebrijes at this market go for $50 MXN, which is the cheapest we saw the whole trip if you wanted to get one.


Casa Embajador de Oaxaca

Santa Maria del Tule

The road out of town is popular for early morning treks out to Hierve el Agua, to see the tule tree, or to visit the archaeological sites like Lambityeco and Mitla. On your route, consider stopping at Casa Embajador for any time of day.


They open at 9am for breakfast including familiar faves like pancakes, eggs and bacon, but also offer up Mexican favorites like chilaquiles and specialty omelettes. With a cute open air atmosphere, they also serve the afternoon crowd for lunch, mezcal tastings and there is even a nice playground for kids.


chilaquiles verde with pork


Wicho's Donut House

Tlacolula de Matamoros

wichos donuts house entry way

I know, what? But this is a favorite thing we like to do on every road trip is to stop at a local donut shop. The donuts are usually pretty legit, and Wicho's delivered so well that we went there twice. Clean, delicious, and inexpensive, it is a perfect stop just before going to the Sunday market in Tlacolula or to visit the amazing Yagul ruins.


donut display case


Antojitos Tapatíos El Birriero

Santa Lucia del Camino

I found this quite by chance. I literally zoomed in on the map near our previously booked AirBnB (we changed to another property) but this place looked so good, it definitely makes the list. Open 9-6pm, it's just a little hole in the wall. But if you like birria, make the stop. Bonus: It's close by to a Walmart if you need any supplies!



Unique Oaxaca Foodie Restaurants


Reynita

Santa Maria del Tule

Located in Santa Maria del Tule, this beautiful hidden gem is colorfully decorated with clay pots, vibrant tablecloths and happy vibes, especially with one of their delicious pepino mezcal cocktails.


cucumber mezcal cocktail with tajin rim and rosemary

On the right night, expect the roving musician or two, a woman inevitably cooking up tortillas over an open flame comal, and twinkle lit trees to cover the open air courtyard you'll dine in.


open flame grill

Try the degustacion de moles (mole tasting), a mezcal cocktail or beer, and the tamal de mole.


twinkle lit garden restaurant

Parking is easy in a private lot across from the restaurant.



Origen Maíz Restaurant

Mitla

mitla view with cocktail in foreground

This restaurant in Mitla overlooks the town market and is oozing with foodie flavors. Try their blended mezcal cocktails, and I definitely recommend the tasajo mitleño, which was beef covered in cheese, and layered with onions and nopales (cactus).


various mexican dishes with purple tortillas

Parking in town is easy. We paid $40 MXN for the day in a nearby lot. They are closed on Mondays and Tuesdays.



Almú

San Martin Tilcajete

Called a "cocina de humo", or, kitchen of smoke, this open air restaurant is breathtaking to behold. Perfectly situated tables sit under shade trees while food cooks on the open stove nearby.


garden setting entry to restaurant

This restaurant is practically spitting distance to the Jacobo y Maria Angeles shop where they specialize in alebrije carving and painting, so make a day trip of it.


I noticed they had a handwritten menu (presumably in English), but our was recited to us in Spanish. There are only a few options to choose from, but everything we tried was hands down the best food of our trip.


pink cocktail

We got the flor de calabaza quesadilla and a mixed mole platter with one of each of their three meat offerings (chicken, pork costillas or pork loin). Finish the meal with a plantain asado (grilled banana) with lechera (sweetened condensed milk). This dessert is a gamechanger.


grilled banana with condensed milk

Get a mezcal cocktail of the house, browse their pottery for sale, relax under the amazing shade cover, and enjoy this gorgeous restaurant. Be aware, it is closed on Mondays!



Casa del Tule

Santa Maria del Tule

This special spot greets diners with loud Mexican music that spills out onto a dirt yard adorned with tables and banners and a super convenient playground for the kids.


view of table under a tent with colorful banners

Their specialty is seafood, and I highly recommend anything with garlic (their mojo con ajo sauce). We chose the garlic shrimp (camarones) and garlic mojarra (fried whole perch).


garlic shrimp

My kid got a hamburguesa feliz (a happy meal!), which included a huge burger and fries, ice cream and a kinder treat with a toy inside. She even made some new friends on their trampoline.


The best part of this restaurant other than the great food and service, was the botanas. For the cost of a beer, diners get to enjoy a free snack. I chose the super fresh oysters, while my husband had the coctel de pulpo.


a menu of botana options

Other options include tacos, garnachas, and more. Go if you are feeling snacky just for drinks and botanas. They are open til 8pm, so in a town full of early-to-close-restaurants, this is a great one to keep up your sleeve.


Private Dinner in a Mezcal Cellar at Casa Chagoya

Tlacolula de Matamoros

candlelit cellar with a table and three chairs

If you want to dress up and feel like a VIP, visit Casa Chagoya for their dinner with the maestro mezcalero experience. First, start with a private tour of the property and a very informative explanation of the types of agave, the process of making mezcal onsite, and other facts about the 130 year old mezcal palenque.


Next, visit the candlelit cellar for a three course meal of memelas, ceviche, pork estufado, and an incredible chocolate tamale. The tamal de chocolate was like a cake, but with the density of a tamale - covered in sugar and berries. Mindblowing, really.


chocolate tamale with berries

Of course being a tour with the mezcalero, your private dinner also includes the presence of mezcal maker Victor Chagoya, and as many shots of mezcal that you can endure. We had a mezcal coctkail to start, followed by their three reserve varietals of mezcal.


At $57 USD per person, the price was worth the visit, but beware the complicated deposit payment made via communications on whatsapp. Ask to use paypal instead of wiring money.


Lastly, you must reserve this tour and dinner at least three days in advance. Learn more here.



Tlamanalli

Teotitlan del Valle

This pre-hispanic restaurant in Teotitlan del Valle is only open from 1-4pm and it is suggested to make a reservation in advance. The hype is definitely mixed on this place, but go for the interesting artifacts and decor, and stay for the super authentic cuisine that is unlike everything else you've had in Oaxaca thus far. I think it's maybe not for everyone, which is why is a perfect Oaxaca foodie destination.



Mountain Trout Farm (Granja de Truchas) Restaurant or Mirador (Vista)

Head north on 175 towards the mountainous areas above the city and seek out a granja de truchas (trout farm) or mirador restaurant (scenic view). The area is full of cozy cabins warmed by wood fireplaces, timbered buildings serving hot coffee and regional dishes, and fresh air bosques (forests) to tickle the soul with glee. This is a great way to spend half a day, with most of the restaurants being only 30 minutes from the city.


I suggest:

  • Restaurant del Monte - Stay at the Campamento del Monte lodgings, like their treehouse or cabins, or dine in the super cute restaurant

  • Paraíso Los Encinos Restaurente/Cabañas - go for the restaurant, but stay for the adorable cabins (starting at about $45/nt)

  • Restaurante y granja de truchas Casa Cortés - colorful vibes, free mezcal, and trout farm pools


I hope that with this Oaxaca foodie guide you will now be able to navigate the local market stalls in the city centro and beyond and that you can indulge in the magnificent flavors of the Oaxacan food with more knowledge. Perhaps, you may even make notes to take home some of the wonderful ingredients for recreating Oaxacan cuisine at home. Buen provecho!
3 comments

Related Posts

See All

3 Comments


Guest
Jun 22

The Oaxaca Foodie Guide is a must-read for anyone interested in exploring Oaxacan cuisine. The diversity and richness of the food in Oaxaca are absolutely incredible. From the famous mole to the fresh tlayudas, every dish is a burst of flavor. During my visit, I was amazed at how the local ingredients and traditional cooking methods create such unique and delicious meals. It reminded me of the Argentine Asado, where the focus is on quality ingredients and a communal dining experience. Both Oaxacan cuisine and an Argentine Asado celebrate food in a way that brings people together, making for memorable and mouth-watering experiences.

Like

Guest
May 31

It's great to see such a comprehensive guide to Oaxacan cuisine! Oaxaca's rich culinary heritage is truly something to explore, from mole to tlayudas. However, it seems like there's a bit of an off-topic link in your comment. While I'm sure https://www.autobidmaster.com/en/search/salvage-cars/chevrolet/ss is a useful resource for those looking to find salvage Chevrolet SS cars, it might not be the best fit here. Let's keep the discussion focused on the incredible food and dining experiences Oaxaca has to offer. If anyone has more restaurant recommendations or dish suggestions, I'd love to hear them!

Like

Guest
Feb 24

This is definitely a foodie destination!

Like

Hi, I'm Maria!

Globetrotting since 1995, I'm not a digital nomad or a social influencer.

I'm a traveler. I'm a storyteller.

And I'm here to inspire you to

Travel More.

Learn about International Travel Destinations and Advice through the lens of an American perspective. 

​Never AI-Generated. Only real stories from my travels.

 

Learn More About Me

 

Join my Facebook Page.png

Subscribe and Get a Free Travel Planning Checklist

Thanks for submitting!

bottom of page