Oaxaca Foodie Guide: Oaxacan Cuisine and the Best Restaurants In Oaxaca
Updated: Mar 1
Are you wondering, "Que comer in Oaxaca!?" (what to eat in Oaxaca?). Look no further. As a bucket list destination of mine for several years, I researched, I salivated...I made a lot of Mexican meals at home in anticipation...and finally I got to visit my Oaxacan wonderland for a week in February. Here I've rounded up the best of Oaxaca foodie tips, tours and unique restaurants from my first-hand experience and research.
Try traditional and authentic Oaxacan mole, challenge your tastebuds with chapulines, or see what all the fuss is about the tllayudas de Oaxaca. Consider Oaxaca your foodie playground. Let's get into it!
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In this article you will find:
An Introduction to Oaxacan Cuisine
If you are a foodie like me (self-proclaimed, of course), then the first thing you probably Google when visiting a new place is where to eat and what to try. I'm hoping to cover those bases for you here!
Below, find the typical and traditional Oaxacan dishes you would find on street carts, in restaurants or in cooking classes before we dig in a little deeper with specific recommendations on restaurants and eateries.
Traditional Oaxacan Dishes
Carne
In Oaxaca, everything is generally offered with one choice of meat:
Tasajo (dried, slim cut beef)
Cecina (seasoned, slightly spicy thin cut pork)
Chorizo (choose from blanco or slightly spicy, seasoned the same as the cecina)
Pair the meat with corn tortillas to create dishes like:
Memelas
These popular little corn tortillas are loaded up with different toppings like beans, cheese and meats. Topped with little chapulines (grasshoppers) these are a fun and easy snack anytime.
Tlayudas de Oaxaca
Described often as a "Oaxacan pizza", this dish is served both in formal or street food settings. A large tortilla is topped with anything from meat to cheese and more, melted up nicely on a comal, which is an open flame oven.
7 Moles of Oaxaca
Holy Moly there's a lot of mole happenings in Oaxaca. I only really ever knew about the one mole - mole negro - a blackish brown sauce that I've made from Dona Maria Mexican Mole paste, or of course in a restaurant. It's cacao (chocolate) based and a touch bitter, since it's not chocolate as we know it (i.e. full of sugar).
It's one of my favorite off-the-typical-tex-mex-menu options, and it's excellent with chicken.
In Oaxaca, there's several ways to try all 7 moles of Oaxaca, which include:
Green (mole verde)
Red (mole rojo)
Black (mole negro)
Yellow (mole amarillo)
Mole Manchamantel
Mole Coloradito
Mole Chichilo
How to try the 7 moles of Oaxaca:
Go for the tasting menu at restaurants like El Escapulario, Almu, or El Reynita
Try a mole tamale
Empanada de amarillo
Enmoladas - a layer of tortillas topped with mole and your choice of toppings (meat or eggs, especially at breakfast time)
I never saw pipian, chichilo or manchamantel specifically, so it's hard for me to say if those go by other names, but we did try five moles on this trip.
Our favorites were estofado, which lands somewhere in the reddish-orange range, full of almonds and green olives. It is absolutely delicious with any style of meat and is not spicy.
Another favorite was the amarillo. Get the empanada de amarillo, which has a tangy flavor and sometimes includes a new herb for me called 'santa'.
Lastly, I really enjoyed the coloradito. Slightly spicy, this dark brown mole packs flavor with a punch.
Also Try
Flor de calabaza quesadilla
A squash blossom quesadilla!
Atole de Pinole
A common breakfast favorite, this is a frothy corn milk drunk from a bowl, served with a giant slice of cornbread
Chocolate de Leche
This is hot chocolate, served with bread as well, and drunk from a bowl
Cafe de Olla
A cinnamon flavored coffee
Tepache and Pulque
Street vendor favorites, these are fermented "drinks of the gods"
Mezcal
I feel like it goes without saying, but wherever you go you will find mezcal to try. Go out of town onto the Ruta de Caminos del Mezcal for the best of the best. Read more about the process, the distilleries and palenques here.
Jicaleta
This street cart food is popular with the littles and the big kids. It is simplyy cold jicama pops painted with sugar and dipped in flavored sugars. Yum!
Chapulines
Grasshoppers - the smaller ones are the best, seriously. Don't hesitate! We liked adding them to memelas, or snacking alongside mezcal. We even saw chapuline salt, chapuline spice for dusting your food, chapuline hot sauces, and more. Needless to say, they are highly regarded in foodie cuisine in Oaxaca.
Gusanos magueys
These are the little worms they find when they dig up agave. They toast them up and serve them for snacking. I found them to be a little hollow and airy. Not a fan.
Marimba Pops
This spicy chile flavored candy starts like a chewy sugar cube and then turns into a refreshing cherry flavored lollipop. It's great for a candy loving adult, but my kid found it too spicy.
Oaxaca Street Food and Market Musts
Street Food in Oaxaca
Street food in Oaxaca is definitely where it's at. Follow your nose, look for crowded vendors and enjoy.
You can easily visit many of the markets and street food vendors on foot in Oaxaca city, but for an in-depth approach, consider doing a guided Oaxaca street food and markets tour.
If you want to go even deeper, rent a car and explore neighboring villages, along with their markets and culinary offerings.
Tlacolula Market Musts
Truthfully, if you do only one thing in Oaxaca, it is to visit the Tlacolula sunday market. There you will find incredible, huge piles of freshly picked garlic and onions, street hawkers selling tepache and pulque, carts painting jicama for kiddos and parents alike, and the smell of smoked meats wafting out of passageways.
Here are a few of my recommendations:
First, visit the exterior market full of souvenirs and such, then when your stomach starts to growl, head inside the market for one of two experiences. The first, a sit down option where you are served alongside other diners various stews and meats, or second, go for a open air barbecue experience.
Select and purchase your desired amount of meat from one of multiple butcher stalls and have them plop it on the grill for you. It's a long process, maybe 20 minutes to cook, so during that time walk around and gather tortillas, drinks, or vegetables to put on the grill.
We ordered costillas de cerdo con ajo (garlic pork ribs) and chorizo blanco (white chorizo). ThisWe got our entire lunch for less than $5 USD and the meat by itself was only $2 USD. This experience was not only fun and interactive, but very delicious.
Lastly, do not leave without trying a jicaleta pop. It's a jicama cut and placed on a popsicle stick, which is then painted with a red sugar and dipped in your choice of colorful sugar options including mango and tajin. It's a refreshing and crunchy finish to a hot lunch.
Mercado 20 de Noviembre: Pasillo de Humo Meat Alley
The claim is that one cannot possibly call themselves a Oaxaca foodie unless they have been to the Pasillo de Humo meat alley in Oaxaca City. A smoke-filled, vibrant sensory overload, this lane just outside the Mercado 20 de Noviembre is a must-do lunch while you are in Oaxaca.
The experience can only be described as chaotic, if you haven't got your Spanish language down pat. Sniff your way to the best looking meat, then sit down and wait to be bombarded with options of condiments, tortillas, bebidas (drinks) and more from passing vendors.
Order a la carte to pair with your meat and settle the bill with a mental count of what's on the table. Maybe take a photo to be sure. We chose to pass on this experience, despite the many pleadings from other bloggers, because we had already experienced the meat hall at Tlacolula market. Both I am sure are wonderful.
Mercado de la Merced: Fonda Florecita
The best breakfast in Oaxaca is arguably one of chilaquiles (basically chips with eggs) and a frothy mug of Mexican hot chocolate. Find this pairing at Fonda Florecita at the Mercado de la Merced in Jalatlaco, or at just about any other breakfast spot in town.
Oaxaca City Restaurants
Because of our proximity outside city center (we stayed closer to Santa Maria del Tule), these were options I looked up but didn't sample for myself.
El Asador Vasco
Overlooking the zocalo, or main square, this Spanish influenced restaurant is a great spot for evening people-watching and good steaks. A little upscale, it's a great place to dress up and feel fancy.
El Escapulario
El Escapulario is a modest eatery with great tlayudas. With a quaint and homey atmosphere, you'll be happy to stay for lunch or dinner. Don't leave without trying their tasting menu of 5 moles.
Cooking Class Meal
If you are looking for the best cooking class in Oaxaca, look no further than Minerva Lopez' traditional cooking class. If the hundreds of user review photos don't do it for you, then honestly I'm not sure you're really a foodie!
Las Quince Letras
Popular for many reasons, this place requires a reservation if you want to get in the door without a fuss. There is rooftop seating, dining room seating, and tranquil courtyard seating. Watch them make tortillas at the "area de comal", a cool spot for a little side entertainment to your dinner. Meals are all authentic recipes of the region from mole to their seasonal special, chiles en nogada. Dress up a little if you wish, but this hip spot caters to the casual too.
Restaurants Outside of Oaxaca City
El Milenario
Santa Maria del Tule
A lovely place to start your day, breakfasts here are full of surprises from heaping plates of cecina, eggs, tasajo or chorizo covering your enmoladas and chilaquiles, to the monstrous must-have bowls of atole or hot chocolate.
Pair breakfast with a stroll past the famous 1000 year old tree in the square, and a quick pop in at the Mercado de Artesanias. Tip: the tiny alebrijes at this market go for $50 MXN, which is the cheapest we saw the whole trip if you wanted to get one.
Casa Embajador de Oaxaca
Santa Maria del Tule
The road out of town is popular for early morning treks out to Hierve el Agua, to see the tule tree, or to visit the archaeological sites like Lambityeco and Mitla. On your route, consider stopping at Casa Embajador for any time of day.
They open at 9am for breakfast including familiar faves like pancakes, eggs and bacon, but also offer up Mexican favorites like chilaquiles and specialty omelettes. With a cute open air atmosphere, they also serve the afternoon crowd for lunch, mezcal tastings and there is even a nice playground for kids.
Wicho's Donut House
Tlacolula de Matamoros
I know, what? But this is a favorite thing we like to do on every road trip is to stop at a local donut shop. The donuts are usually pretty legit, and Wicho's delivered so well that we went there twice. Clean, delicious, and inexpensive, it is a perfect stop just before going to the Sunday market in Tlacolula or to visit the amazing Yagul ruins.
Antojitos Tapatíos El Birriero
Santa Lucia del Camino
I found this quite by chance. I literally zoomed in on the map near our previously booked AirBnB (we changed to another property) but this place looked so good, it definitely makes the list. Open 9-6pm, it's just a little hole in the wall. But if you like birria, make the stop. Bonus: It's close by to a Walmart if you need any supplies!
Unique Oaxaca Foodie Restaurants
Reynita
Santa Maria del Tule
Located in Santa Maria del Tule, this beautiful hidden gem is colorfully decorated with clay pots, vibrant tablecloths and happy vibes, especially with one of their delicious pepino mezcal cocktails.
On the right night, expect the roving musician or two, a woman inevitably cooking up tortillas over an open flame comal, and twinkle lit trees to cover the open air courtyard you'll dine in.
Try the degustacion de moles (mole tasting), a mezcal cocktail or beer, and the tamal de mole.
Parking is easy in a private lot across from the restaurant.
Origen Maíz Restaurant
Mitla
This restaurant in Mitla overlooks the town market and is oozing with foodie flavors. Try their blended mezcal cocktails, and I definitely recommend the tasajo mitleño, which was beef covered in cheese, and layered with onions and nopales (cactus).
Parking in town is easy. We paid $40 MXN for the day in a nearby lot. They are closed on Mondays and Tuesdays.
Almú
San Martin Tilcajete
Called a "cocina de humo", or, kitchen of smoke, this open air restaurant is breathtaking to behold. Perfectly situated tables sit under shade trees while food cooks on the open stove nearby.
This restaurant is practically spitting distance to the Jacobo y Maria Angeles shop where they specialize in alebrije carving and painting, so make a day trip of it.
I noticed they had a handwritten menu (presumably in English), but our was recited to us in Spanish. There are only a few options to choose from, but everything we tried was hands down the best food of our trip.
We got the flor de calabaza quesadilla and a mixed mole platter with one of each of their three meat offerings (chicken, pork costillas or pork loin). Finish the meal with a plantain asado (grilled banana) with lechera (sweetened condensed milk). This dessert is a gamechanger.
Get a mezcal cocktail of the house, browse their pottery for sale, relax under the amazing shade cover, and enjoy this gorgeous restaurant. Be aware, it is closed on Mondays!
Casa del Tule
Santa Maria del Tule
This special spot greets diners with loud Mexican music that spills out onto a dirt yard adorned with tables and banners and a super convenient playground for the kids.
Their specialty is seafood, and I highly recommend anything with garlic (their mojo con ajo sauce). We chose the garlic shrimp (camarones) and garlic mojarra (fried whole perch).
My kid got a hamburguesa feliz (a happy meal!), which included a huge burger and fries, ice cream and a kinder treat with a toy inside. She even made some new friends on their trampoline.
The best part of this restaurant other than the great food and service, was the botanas. For the cost of a beer, diners get to enjoy a free snack. I chose the super fresh oysters, while my husband had the coctel de pulpo.
Other options include tacos, garnachas, and more. Go if you are feeling snacky just for drinks and botanas. They are open til 8pm, so in a town full of early-to-close-restaurants, this is a great one to keep up your sleeve.
Private Dinner in a Mezcal Cellar at Casa Chagoya
Tlacolula de Matamoros
If you want to dress up and feel like a VIP, visit Casa Chagoya for their dinner with the maestro mezcalero experience. First, start with a private tour of the property and a very informative explanation of the types of agave, the process of making mezcal onsite, and other facts about the 130 year old mezcal palenque.
Next, visit the candlelit cellar for a three course meal of memelas, ceviche, pork estufado, and an incredible chocolate tamale. The tamal de chocolate was like a cake, but with the density of a tamale - covered in sugar and berries. Mindblowing, really.
Of course being a tour with the mezcalero, your private dinner also includes the presence of mezcal maker Victor Chagoya, and as many shots of mezcal that you can endure. We had a mezcal coctkail to start, followed by their three reserve varietals of mezcal.
At $57 USD per person, the price was worth the visit, but beware the complicated deposit payment made via communications on whatsapp. Ask to use paypal instead of wiring money.
Lastly, you must reserve this tour and dinner at least three days in advance. Learn more here.
Tlamanalli
Teotitlan del Valle
This pre-hispanic restaurant in Teotitlan del Valle is only open from 1-4pm and it is suggested to make a reservation in advance. The hype is definitely mixed on this place, but go for the interesting artifacts and decor, and stay for the super authentic cuisine that is unlike everything else you've had in Oaxaca thus far. I think it's maybe not for everyone, which is why is a perfect Oaxaca foodie destination.
Mountain Trout Farm (Granja de Truchas) Restaurant or Mirador (Vista)
Head north on 175 towards the mountainous areas above the city and seek out a granja de truchas (trout farm) or mirador restaurant (scenic view). The area is full of cozy cabins warmed by wood fireplaces, timbered buildings serving hot coffee and regional dishes, and fresh air bosques (forests) to tickle the soul with glee. This is a great way to spend half a day, with most of the restaurants being only 30 minutes from the city.
I suggest:
Restaurant del Monte - Stay at the Campamento del Monte lodgings, like their treehouse or cabins, or dine in the super cute restaurant
Paraíso Los Encinos Restaurente/Cabañas - go for the restaurant, but stay for the adorable cabins (starting at about $45/nt)
Restaurante y granja de truchas Casa Cortés - colorful vibes, free mezcal, and trout farm pools
