Finding "Authentic Germany" on a Layover in Frankfurt
- Maria DiCicco
- 2 hours ago
- 8 min read
Whether passing through for a long layover, or spending the night in Frankfurt to fly out the next day, I've rounded up some first-hand tips on how to best see "old Frankfurt" in its most authentic form.
When we fly, convenience is paramount, so I typically try to stay close to the airport (or in the terminal, if I can afford it). From there, I'll plan ventures into the nearest city or landmark location in search of the most authentic cuisine and the most essential attractions that a visitor needs to see in that place in a short period of time.
Thinking of Germany, images of half-timbered buildings and liter steins of beer are what we think of most, with quaint cobbled streets and cozy, charming restaurants serving up schnitzels.
Unfortunately, the old town Frankfurt that you might expect in Germany's biggest airport hub is actually a complete and total fake as far as historic value goes. It's a reproduction! Instead, when you expect to jump off the airplane to see cute, "authentic Germany", you'll see a major metropolis in its place.
So how do we as visitors get to capture the essence of "authentic Germany" in a city that only shows whispers of that past? It may not be hundreds of years old, but Frankfurt's Neue Altstadt (New Old Town) ain't half bad for touring and giving you that old Deutschland vibe you're looking for.
So below I'll share logistics for where to stay at the Frankfurt airport, how to get to Frankfurt's new Old Town, and where to eat when you get there to button up the overnight experience.
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Short on Time?Here's the Ideal Layover in FrankfurtTo find the most "Authentic German" experience you can in Frankfurt,
Read on for details! |
Capitalizing on Overnight Layovers
I have long made it my mission to see a destination - even if just the tip of it - in any way that I can on long layovers. Even if it is just enough time to eat and sleep in that destination, I'm going to try and maximize the time I have by seeking out the most authentic places to give me a whiff - an essence - of where I am visiting.
In fact, I love doing this so much that I often book my overseas flights with this in mind. I'll purposefully find flights with 15+ hour layovers (it's a cool filtering trick using Google Flights search tool), and I'll essentially build in a mini-vacation for a one night layover.
Truly, I do this all the time. Some I've written about here include:
A layover in Milan (in three different airports and three different trips!)
A layover in Iceland (perfect for 24+ hours and a sense of adventure)
An extended layover on my way to/from Japan in Montreal (great for battling jet lag)
Dozens of overnight layovers at Gatwick airport en route to/from our home in Spain
...and so many more!
I tell you this not to brag, but to illustrate that a layover in any airport in the world is going to be great for not only rest and recuperation before a big flight, but for a sense of the location. Let's examine how to maximize time on a layover in Frankfurt!
Frankfurt's New Old Town
Reconstructed as a reproduction of the medieval town buildings destroyed during World War II, Frankfurt's Old Town has had a revival. Finished and unveiled in 2018, the scene I witnessed when we arrived for our overnight layover in Frankfurt was something I could only describe as Disney-esque.
Living in Orlando, Florida, basically anywhere I go that looks pristinely perfect in its authenticity around the globe screams "EPCOT's World Showcase" to me. Clean buildings, clean streets, and not an ounce of age or decay were on these new-old buildings.
The main square is located at Römerberg, where protestors had gathered in cheers, chants and songs in reference to happenings in the Middle East.
The square was crowded and a touch tense for the occasion, but that didn't stop storefronts from opening their doors with overpriced souvenirs, dirndls and beer steins inside.
Gawkers sat and had giant beer steins in outdoor plaza tables, and the atmosphere was all in all quite lively.
A walk around the historic Römerberg plaza won't take but a few minutes, depending on how often you duck into shops, and then it's time to break away down some side lanes.
Here, we discovered that on a Saturday night things were BUMPING.
Everyone was out and about, with the popular past time being line up windows for purchasing beer, wine and snacks.
Everyone congregated in the squares just drinking freely.
Things to Do in Frankfurt Old Town
If you arrive early enough in the day to enjoy some sunshine and nature, I might suggest taking a one hour siteseeing cruise along the Main River. There are two outfitters that offer this, and I think it would be a great way to relax after a day of flying. Have a drink on the top deck of the boat and enjoy the scenery!
The best thing - the rides are only about $20 per person!
Compare cruise outfitters:
Book with Primus-Linie (the same link as above) OR
Back on land, the main attraction, I suppose for history buffs, might be the iconic Frankfurt Cathedral, or Kaiserdom St. Bartholomäus, but the vibe when I was there was clearly more about Saturday night imbibing than anything else.
For me, we only had about 3-4 hours to explore, discover and eat before having to return to the airport hotel, so we spent our time like we always spend our time - shopping and eating. The front desk lady recommended starting at Hauptwache to shop, but instead we roamed from our starting point at Romerberg..
There was a main pedestrian thoroughfare full of young people walking around with beer. As we continued down into different side plazas there were people just everywhere.
The weinterrasse at RollanderHof Gallerie in this photo looked like a really fun spot. I definitely would have stopped in in my younger, child-free days.
Instead, we stopped into an obligatory Aldi location for some browsing in the aisle of shame. It's a must for my family! (IYKYK).
Where to Eat in Frankfurt for an Authentic Experience
Ultimately, we dined. This is the most authentic Germany experience you might get in Frankfurt, so listen up!
Book a reservation (made by phone only - but don't worry, they speak English) - at Römer Pils Brunnen.
The restaurant from the outside is what you might expect - half-timbered, tavern-like cuteness.
Inside, find even more charming atmosphere and the sweetest service.
The language of choice of the clientele was decidedly English, and the experience was certainly meant for tourism. But nonetheless, the food was outrageously good.
We had everything from schnitzel to pork knuckle, and of course ended with apfelwein and apfelstrudel. And maybe a round of apple schnapps on the house...
Get your quintessential meal, savor, and enjoy before returning to your hotel for the night.
Optionally, you can stay out late and go on a walk near the river to see the city lights, or do some pub crawling on an organized tour.
I prefer not to be hungover before a flight, but you do you!
Getting to Frankfurt Old Town from the Airport
The hotel's front desk at the airport was full of great information when we arrived, even though I'd done the research in advance.
My family of five (including my parents, husband and six year old daughter) had planned to take the 17 minute train direct from the terminal to the old town. Easy peasy.
When I pulled it up on maps, it now said 35 minutes to the old town including delays and more delays. The front desk said the trains are always getting delayed. In fact, she suggested that at 7 euros (ish) per person one way, it may be more economical for my crew to get a taxi. So we did that...
Find the taxi and/or Uber stand by following signs for the train and ending up outside on the arrivals level.
Taxi Frankfurt Airport to Frankfurt Old Town
Taxi fare to Frankfurt old town was suggested at 40 euros one way.
In reality, with traffic amping up our metered fare, it was over 60 euros and we jumped out before we made it to the Römerberg plaza. Traffic was that bad!
Uber Frankfurt Old Town to Frankfurt Airport
Uber fare to return from the old town to the airport was also 60 euros. Keep in mind we had 5 people and an Uber XL ride.
Nonetheless, it was steep. Maybe the train would have been preferable?
Where to Stay at Frankfurt Airport on a Layover
Listen, we are talking about convenience here. Anything outside of the bounds of the airport involves a taxi, a train, and more time spent in transit in the morning hours.
Keep it simple and stay at one of the four best Frankfurt airport hotels:
My Recommendation
We stayed in the Frankfurt Airport Marriott Hotel, which boasted a concierge lounge for mid-afternoon revival.
We got a large family room big enough for at least 4 people (it had three beds and a couch) - perfect for people traveling with kids, and also enjoyed a nice breakfast spread, shared with the Sheraton hotel.
Finding breakfast is a bit of a challenge - you have to go through the train station looking depot between the Marriott and the Sheraton (great for an pre-dinner drink, by the way), and you'll find the breakfast room in the Sheraton. Breakfast featured an omelette station and even a little kid's food area.
Inside the Sheraton you could also choose to dine at the Taverne Frankfurt restaurant, which resembles that "authentic Germany" vibe you may be looking for if you are unable to leave the airport.
You can even make reservations on the Sheraton website, if need be!
Top TakeawaysStaying the night in Frankfurt Airport on a layover is the best way to situated yourself comfortably before a next-day flight. Stay at the Frankfurt Airport Marriott Hotel or another in-terminal hotel for the easiest transit. Make dinner reservations near the Frankfurt Old Town, where a lively atmosphere and kitschy-cute old buildings wait to be explored and photographed. Expect to spend about 80-100 euros on a round-trip taxi fare, or around 15-20 euros per person on the train. If you have time, opt into a one-hour river cruise for a drink and some relaxation to really see the best of Frankfurt from the water. For more on Germany, learn about 16 Storybook Southern Germany Road Trip Stops Including the Romantic Road and Weinstrasse |
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