top of page

Explore the Best Shore Excursion from Rome: Discover Montefiascone, Civita di Bagnoregio, and EST EST EST Wine

Updated: Apr 29

For a great day in the Italian countryside, discover the "dying city" of Civita di Bagnoregio, hike up it's monstrous hill to cozy shops and see quiet, humble village life there. Then, explore the walled city of Montefiascone and indulge in a wine tasting of the area varietal, the famed EST EST EST.


Only 1-2 hours of drive time from Rome's Civitavecchia port, this relaxing alternative to a typical Rome shore excursion is excellent for those who have seen and done it all in the Eternal City.


Note: Always Pack Tissues represents many tried and tested travel sites as what is called an 'affiliate' partner. That means if you click on my ads I may get a commission from a resulting sale. As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases. For information on how this may impact your privacy rights, please consult my privacy policy.


town on a hill top


Short on Time?

The ideal day in port near Civitavecchia and Montefiascone includes this scenic, wine-filled adventure to somewhere that isn't Rome. For those who have "been there, done that" with Rome's great sites, here's an excursion I bet you haven't considered before!


Book DIY, rent a car for the day, or try a tour:


Car Rental in Civitavecchia (around $29 a day!)



Visit Civita di Bagnoregio and see the "Dying City" town square. Explore cozy boutiques or have a snack. You'll need it for the hike up and down the hill.



Go wine tasting and try EST!! EST!! EST!!, a unique area varietal, at Antica Cantina Leonardi. You can do historic cellar tours paired with food and wine or even have an offbeat adventure riding an E-Bike through the vineyards!



After snacking or lunch, visit the walled city streets and famous Chiesa di San Flaviano in Montefiascone.





The "Dying City"

Start the day by traveling about an hour and a half to the famed "Dying City". The "Dying City", Civita di Bagnoregio, is a deserted Italian town high up on a hill where Lazio and Umbria meet.


The town has been built up on a stone mountain, much like what you might encounter if you've been to Meteora in Greece, and day by day the town dies a little more, as the foundational structure deteriorates.


Hence the name, the "Dying City".


Buses and visitors park outside the tiny hamlet and have to hike in from the modern village of Bagnoregio below.


view of a town on a hilltop

Then, walk the exhausting uphill trek to the adorable town, which my family joked later "this is why the town is dying, no one can make the walk up!". It is definitely a hike for every fitness level, and we did it with a stroller!


(Psst: if you are traveling to Italy with kids, check out my Kid's Travel Journal, "Scavenger Hunt Italy" on Amazon!).


Once you make it up, find nothing but quiet in the main square. The town is home to only a dozen inhabitants (and a bunch of wandering cats), with shopkeepers coming in daily to cater to tourists.


town square of an ancient town

Sample local cured meats in their town shop and take home some for later (I recommend the wild boar sausage and truffle salami), and be sure to savor some of the local nocciola, which is a hazelnut cream liqueur similar to a Bailey's.


cats on a stone wall

On the right chilly day, step into a fire lit stone restaurant for local specialties, or try a homemade pizza from the oven you can smell from the town square.


blue door with ivy

This tour from the port will take you to the Dying City and back.



Est!! Est!! Est!!

After working up an appetite, we paired our visit to the Dying City with wine and lunch at a Montefiascone vineyard called Antica Cantina Leonardi.


sign for a vineyard with a cat by the window

Here, we discovered the local wine of the region, which is not soon to be forgotten due to it's absolutely bonkers name - EST!! EST!! EST!!


wine bottles on a red table top

Seriously, this is the varietal name. Like a Chardonnay, or a Pinot Grigio. You look on the shelf for an EST!! EST!! EST!!


So what the heck is it?


Well, est means, "it is" in Italian. And non est means, it isn't.


Tastings.com describes the story best: "Est! Est! Est! got its name from the story of a German Bishop who sent his servant ahead to taste the wines along his route of travel, leaving messages on the walls of inns and taverns to tell his master whether he should drink the wine or avoid it. "Est" (it is) meant the wine was good, while "Non est" (it isn't) told the Bishop to move on. It is clear that the servant saw considerable virtue in the wines of Montefiascone, as indicated by his "Est! Est! Est!!! scrawled on the wall."


Discover this unique white wine and its vibrant character at Antica Cantina Leonardi, and if you are lucky maybe they'll feed you their wine course with some delicious Italian lunch.





If you are like me and enjoy bringing home wine, it is good to note that we were allowed to bring all you see in the photo below on board our ship, and none of the wine was confiscated.


souvenirs from montefiascone

To further protect your wine, I highly recommend purchasing a wine suitcase from VinGardeValise. Their suite of products is amazing, and I bring my 12-bottle suitcase on as many adventures as possible! Learn more here.



Montefiascone

Later, avoid a post wine slump by wandering the walled city streets and famous Chiesa di San Flaviano in Montefiascone. There, you will find captivating murals within the church, like this one.


church mural with skeletons

The town streets and alleyways are charming enough for a stroll, and surely had we been able to visit, we'd have popped into some shops or a cafe for an afternoon coffee.



people walk through an old town


Be sure to take a moment and look over the gorgeous lake views of Lago di Bolsena before wrapping up your relaxing day trip from Civitavecchia port.


lake view in Italy


How to Visit

Tours can be arranged through the cruise ships, or you can arrange your own with a local tour company. Because Civitavecchia port is mostly an inlet for visitors to Rome, we opted to do this tour as something different. This trip is especially good for travelers who have seen Rome one too many times!



Top Takeaways

For an ideal day to Montefiascone and the countryside, enjoy a morning of hiking to the hilltop town of Civita di Bagnoregio, learning of its history, and then celebrate your feat with lunch and wine tasting at Antica Cantina Leonardi.


Followed by a stroll around quiet Montefiascone, this is a full day from your cruise ship.


For other ideas from Citivavecchia, or for a few days before your trip - spend time in Rome off the beaten path.


Additional port day trip ideas can also be found on my site for Pisa, Florence, Monza, Emilia-Romagna and more!


Before you go, be sure to download and print my FREE pre-cruise checklist!


Hi, I'm Maria!

Globetrotting since 1995, I'm not a digital nomad or a social influencer.

​

I'm a traveler. I'm a storyteller.

And I'm here to inspire you to

Travel More.

​

Learn about International Travel Destinations and Advice through the lens of an American perspective. 

​

​Never AI-Generated. Only real stories from my travels.

 

Learn More About Me

 

​

scavengerhuntspaincoverimage.jpg

Traveling with kids? This educational activity book and journal is the perfect companion for your trip! Click on the image above to purchase from Amazon.

Spanish Tapas Crawl Bingo Banner Ad.png

Don't Wait For Someday. Travel More Today.

Sign up for my email list to get great deals, new posts and brand news to your inbox directly.

Thanks for submitting!

bottom of page