American Culture Shock: What's Going On With Easter in Spain?!

From what's on the street to the goodies they eat, Spain does Easter just a little bit differently than in America.

When I think of Easter in the States I think of fluffy bunnies, egg hunts, frilly pastel-colored dresses and a Thanksgiving feast redux. In Spain - it's a different ball game. Easter Sunday is the final day of an entire week of festivities called "Semana Santa", or Holy Week.

E.B. Bunny is barely a thing. Some stores have egg shaped chocolate candies, but that's it. Easter is about Jesus. It's about mourners, suffering, sin, and all the not so great parts about how Jesus died (and returned).

In other words - it's a very big religious deal. Big.

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So how do Spaniards celebrate Easter?

Processions. Drums. All day. All night. For a week! I kid you not, these processions woke me from my slumber at midnight, 2am and even all the way to 430 in the morning! They take this very seriously.

Each day of the holy week has a significance, from Palm Sunday on through the week where Thursday evening is apparently the most exciting for the processions because they went on from midnight until 5 in the morning! Or was it Wednesday? Every night was drumming. Every night was a blur!

My thoughts of course were, "WHAT IS WRONG WITH SPANIARDS!?" Surely other culture shocked Americans can attest to what I am saying as well. But day in, day out the processions continued.

Each group of drummers in the procession is represented with a different color hood, some being more intense than others.

Meaning, some actually injure themselves, chain their feet together in procession, or bang on their drums until their knuckles bleed.

Like I said, intense.

Then, by Good Friday all 15,000 of them come out for one long procession. FIFTEEN THOUSAND!!! DRUMMING!

Good lord people, I am telling you it is a sight to see.

What's Open in Spain for Easter?

Stores were closed on Good Friday and of course Easter Sunday, and well, Palm Sunday too. Things were pretty much closed everywhere all the time. If restaurants were open you needed a reservation long in advance (unless it was an Asian restaurant), and the parking garages were full. Don't try to move your rental car that week!

Expect Processions ALL Week

I reminisce back to the first time I heard the alarming and culture shocking processions...

Drums of war were pounding, at least that's what it sounded like to me. Rows and rows of marchers banged in procession to somewhere (presumably the Basilica), step by step bringing more folks to their balconies to watch. Here I saw the first group of many more thousands of Nazarenes, or Cofradias that I'd see that first Easter week experience.

For the next several days we couldn't go anywhere without being stopped or slowed down by another club or brotherhood of these men marching for the holiday.

Although shocking to us, knowing full well as Americans what these hoods used to signify, it's a pretty horrific sight at first.

Yet as it turns out, this is a normal thing in Spain, so never fear.

Related: Free Printable Spanish Phrases Pocket Guide

Sample Torrijas

Meanwhile, for a total 180 - enjoy the foods of the season - namely, Torrijas. If ever there were anything more memorable than scary processions of drummers, it's these sugary french-toast like treats served especially for the Easter holiday in Spain.

Homemade torrijas are just the ticket on Easter in Spain

Salivating just looking at these? Try them out for yourself with this recipe straight from my Spanish mother-in-law.

Torrijas Recipe

1. Start with a loaf of old bread a couple of days old (cuban or french). You cut it into one inch slices.

2. In a bowl mix half a gallon of milk and a tbsp of cinnamon. Maybe you need more milk and cinnamon depending on how much bread you make.

3. In another bowl beat two whole eggs (you may need more eggs).

4. In a deep plate you make a mixture of 2 cups of sugar and 2 tbsp of cinnamon or as you like.

5. Heat enough oil in a pan to fry the slices.

6. Soak the slices of bread one by one in the milk with cinnamon. You have to do this quickly, then pass them through the beaten egg and then fry them until golden brown.

7. As you fry the slices, you pass them through the mixture of sugar and cinnamon and put them on a tray ready to eat.

Spanish Feasting for Easter

While you are thinking about torrijas, why not make a whole Spanish feast? Easter in Spain comes with many options for dining depending on the region, but just like turkey is a sacred staple for most of the American holidays, so is paella for the Spaniards! A special occasion meal in most homes, this well-known meal feeds many. The secret to a good paella though? The crunchy bit on the bottom of the pan called "socarrat". You'll be fighting everyone at the table for the scrapings so get ready!

Paella is a special occasion meal on Easter

Whip up your favorite batch of seafoody goodness and impress all your friends with your knowledge of Easter in Spain. Even better, shop for some of your favorites from abroad below if you just can't find what you need nearby.

Final Thoughts

If you find yourself in Spain this Easter, be sure to look up the local events and also keep in mind that a LOT of stuff will be closed at random times and days during the Semana Santa Holy Week. I recommend you stock up on groceries and steer clear of any expectations to eat out on Good Friday or Easter Sunday.

You want to try something different this Easter holiday? Grab some seats on Iberia and experience Semana Santa the Spanish way. Ole!